Haven’t tried the place out yet but we’ve been meaning to.
Avellino’s Pizza
902 West College Ave., Decatur
By Bob Townsend
For the AJC
No doubt, it’s a tough time to open a restaurant. But in Atlanta, it’s become an even tougher time to open a pizza restaurant, as the so-called “pizza wars” have pitched the attention of metro dining bloggers and foodies toward the mystic equations of crust, sauce and cheese.
Clearly, Avellino’s Pizza, which specializes in a kind of Italian bakery-style pan pizza rarely seen in these parts, has struggled to find a steady following, changing its hours and menu since opening in early 2009.
Decatur digs
Located on West College Avenue, between the Oakhurst neighborhood and Agnes Scott College, Avellino’s is tucked into a neat little corner storefront space. The design bucks the current hip hole-in-the wall look with a curving granite bar and cozy tables arranged in front of tall windows. The open kitchen, stacked with shiny pizza ovens, is surrounded in stainless steel.
Medium thickness
Owner Luigi DiRienzo — of Enzo’s Deli in the Sweet Auburn Curb Market — comes from a family of bakers. That shows in the fresh dough DiRienzo makes daily and forms into quarter- or half-sheet pizzas.
Baked in rectangular pans, the crust isn’t exactly thin.
But it’s not as thick as Sicilian-style, either. It develops a chewy, bready crumb, with a charred crispy bottom and crunchy edges.
Toppings are strictly old school, with lots of spicy Italian meats, a variety of veggies and several cheeses.
On a recent visit, a quarter-sheet with fresh mozzarella and hot sopressata ($14) had a nice blend of spicy salami and creamy cheese over a smear of savory tomato sauce, and proved more than enough for two people.
Calzones ($7 plus $1 per topping) are big half-moons of pizza dough filled with pizza toppings and a blend of cheeses.
Pasta and sandwiches
Almost everything goes into the pizza oven at Avellino’s, including pasta dishes and a selection of Italian hero and panini sandwiches.
Look for baked ziti with sausage, and meatballs or sausage and peppers on Italian bread.
There are several simple salads. The house, which comes with the pasta dishes, is a blend of romaine lettuce, tomato and shredded mozzarella, with bottled-basic Italian dressing.
Draft beers include Brooklyn Lager and Harpoon IPA, and there are a few wines by the glass.
Dining out
Avellino’s Pizza, 902 West College Ave., Decatur 404-228-3285
Signature dish: Pan pizza
Entree prices: $7-$23
Hours: 4-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 4-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes
Online: No Web site
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